Get Attached: Wearing or Attaching Laminated Name Tags

Are you having trouble keeping track of items – or people? Laminated name tags are a visually identifiable way to keep track of items or persons during travel or large events.

Types of Attachments:

Clear Plastic Loops – These jelly-like loops are quick and easy to use. To thread onto a slotted tag:

  1. Push one rounded end through the slot, then up through the opposite round end of the loop.
  2. Pull the threading end to fix the loop to the tag.
  3. Repeat the process using the tag as the threading end to attach to luggage.

Metal Clips are quickly attached to a slotted tag by simply pinching open, then releasing to grip the tag. Some clips come equipped with a small plastic strap, which threads and snaps through a tag’s slot, leaving the clip available to clip onto clothing.

Neck Lanyards – In addition to a variety of colors and strap styles, neck lanyards come with multiple attachment styles. The two most common styles are a swivel J-hook or a bulldog clip, which operates much the same as the metal clips discussed earlier. To attach a tag to a swivel hook, pinch the straight piece that presses against the lower tip of the “J,” thread it through the tag hole, then release to close.

What kind of tools can I use to punch holes or slots in my tags?

Swivel J-hook lanyards can be attached to items simply punched with a round hole punch. However, clear plastic loops and metal clip attachments work best with tags that have a slot – a rounded rectangular shaped hole. Rounded holes can be punched using a simple hand-held punch found in most office and craft supply stores, but slots require more specialized tools like the TruLam Stapler-Style Slot Punch (Item #TL-SPUNCH). There are other tools available that can punch both styles using the same machine, like the TruLam 3-in-1 Slot Punch.

Case Closed: Secrets to Perfectly Closed Twin-Loop Wires Revealed

These helpful hints on closing twin-loop wires with a manual wire closer help save your supplies, time and money:

Matching Dials and Diameters

Most machines have a dial on the side that controls how far its wire closer will compress. The numbers on the dial correspond to the diameter of a wire once it’s closed. For example, you would turn the dial to 1/4 in. if you were binding a book with either a 1/4 in. twin loop wire with either a 3:1 or 2:1 pitch.

Why does my wire still have a gap between the tip and end of the twin loop?

Machines can be calibrated differently. You may need to turn the dial slightly looser or tighter in order to achieve your desired wire closure. For example, if there is still a gap in your 1/2 in. twin loop wire and your machine is certainly set to 1/2 in., gently turning the dial towards 7/16 in. should create a tighter closure.

Why does my wire get crushed in the closer?

Crushed wires usually occur because the diameter of the wire does not match the dial setting on your wire closer.

Some machines such as the TruBind TB-W20A Manual 3:1 Wire Binding Machine utilize the same handle for both punching sheets and operating the wire closer. When it’s time to punch, the dial must be set to “PUNCH.” Sometimes even the most experienced operator forgets to turn the dial to the appropriate wire diameter setting before closing wires!

Understanding ID Card Printing Terminology: Card Printer Ribbon Cartridge Abbreviations

What Do YMCKO and YMCKOK Mean?

Members of the print industry easily recognize the letters “CMYK” as the four basic colors of printing: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black. The four of these colors are layered in different increments on paper to create hundreds of color output combinations.

This same method applies to ID card printing. The letters “YMCK” also stand for the same four basic printing colors: Yellow, Magenta, Cyan and Black. When a color cartridge is indicated as “YMCKO,” the cartridge first prints all four basic colors then adds a clear Overlay (the “O”) at the end to protect the printed image.

A cartridge marked as “YMCKOK” is also a color cartridge complete with clear Overlay, but the “K” at the end indicates this cartridge is used for dual-sided card printing. This cartridge allows you to print full color on the front side and just Black on the reverse side.

Other Abbreviations

Some Black cartridges bear different abbreviations like KdO and KrO. The “K” indicates it is a Black cartridge and the “O” at the end indicates it also comes with a a clear Overlay. The lowercase “d” stands for “dye” while the “r” stands for “resin.” The KdO cartridge is ideal for printing grayscale images with light, midtone, and shadow while the KrO is perfect for printing crisp black lines in logos and barcodes for easy reading.

To learn more about ID card printing equipment and supplies, visit our complete selection on

How Do I Bind Books with the CombBind C110E Comb Binding Machine?

With its 15-sheet electric punching capacity, the Swingline GBC CombBind C110E comb binding machine is well-suited for use in offices and other medium-volume binding environments. This model easily adjusts to accommodate the most popular paper sizes – including letter and A4 – to ensure a professional finish on a wide range of documents. The built-in comb opener has added guides and indicator lines that help to streamline the binding process, reducing errors and improving operator efficiency.

Swingline GBC CombBind C110E Comb Binding Machine

Below are step-by-step instructions for binding books with the CombBind C110E comb binder:

  1. Ensure that the machine is plugged into the wall, then turn it on using the power switch that is located at the rear of the machine. When power is on, a green indicator light will be illuminated.
  2. Adjust the edge guide based on the paper size of the document that you will be binding. The CombBind C110E has three size settings – Letter (8-1/2″ x 11″), A4 (297mm x 210mm), and Oversized (222mm x 286mm).
  3. Set the complete unbound document against the comb support on the comb opener, positioning it toward the right side so that it aligns with the binding size scale. Push the comb opener handle toward the back of the machine until the hooks are in contact with the document.
  4. Use the comb size guide to determine which plastic binding comb to use to bind your document.
  5. Place the indicated binding comb into the comb opener, aligning it to the white positioning arrow. The comb should be inserted so that the solid edge of the spine is behind the metal comb support fingers and the open side is facing up. Note: If you are using a GBC ProComb, it should be inserted so that the colored arrow on the comb is aligned to the corresponding arrow on the machine.
  6. Open the binding comb by pulling the comb opener handle toward you. The colored arrows adjacent to the comb opener will provide an indication of when the comb has been adequately opened in order to insert the punched pages of your document.
  7. Insert up 15 sheets (based on 20 lb. paper) into the punching throat, aligning them against the back of the throat and the edge guide. To ensure that the pages are punched evenly, they should be jogged by tapping them against a flat surface prior to insertion. Note: If you are punching thick cover stock or clear PVC covers, you will need to reduce the number of sheets per punch to avoid jamming the machine.
  8. Press the punch button to engage the motor and punch through your sheets. Note: If the punch jams, the red jam light will illuminate and the machine will automatically reverse in an attempt to clear the jam. Remove the paper from the punching throat and push the punch button to reset the machine. When the machine is successfully reset, the red jam light will turn off to indicate that the machine is ready to use. Reduce the number of pages and try punching again.
  9. Insert the punched pages onto the comb, with the front cover facing down. Continue punching your book in sets of up to 15 pages and placing them onto the open comb until it is fully assembled.
  10. Close the comb by pushing the comb opener handle back to its starting position.
  11. Lift the book straight upward to remove it from the comb opener.
  12. When you are finished punching, be sure to turn off the motor using the power switch at the rear of the machine.

How Do I Clean My Fastback 15xs Binding Machine?

The Fastback 15xs binding machine from Powis Parker is an easy-to-use and easy-to-maintain thermal binding system that creates both hardcover and softcover books. Unlike traditional punch-and-bind machines that create large amounts of dust and paper debris, the Fastback 15xs uses adhesive-lined Super Strips for a clean and efficient binding process. Though the machine requires very little maintenance, cleaning it occasionally will help to keep it running at its optimum level of performance. Below is a step-by-step guide to cleaning your Fastback 15xs thermal binder:

Cleaning the Outside of Your Fastback 15xs

  1. If the outside of your binding machine gets dirty, you can clean the cover using a soft, damp cloth and mild detergent.
  2. Remove any adhesive residue from the inner book clamps by opening the cover and wiping it away using a cotton cloth that has been dampened with the included citrus cleaning solution.

Cleaning the Inside of Your Fastback 15xs

  1. Adhesive residue on the platen is easiest to remove when the machine is cool. Turn the machine off and let it cool completely (approximately one hour), then peel off the adhesive.
  2. If you need to clean the platen immediately and cannot wait for the machine to cool, you can still remove the adhesive by following a different process. Begin by putting on the heat-protective glove that was included with your machine. Since the surface

How Do I Make a Perfectback Book with the Fastback 20 Binding Machine?

You are probably aware that the Fastback 20 binding system from Powis Parker can be used to create both hardcover and softcover books using external thermal binding strips, but did you know that it can also create paperback-style books using wraparound covers? With Fastback Perfectback strips, you can create professional-looking paperback books, where the front cover, spine, and back cover are all a single piece of stock.

Perfectback-TA strips are similar to Super Strips in that they are made with thermally-activated adhesive, however the Perfectback-TA strips have a release liner in place of the decorate paper used on Super Strips. After the Perfectback-TA strip is applied to your document, the release liner is removed and the book is placed within a pre-scored cover. From there, the book is run through an additional binding cycle that will melt the adhesive and fuse the pages to the cover.

In addition to the Fastback 20 binding machine and Perfectback binding strips, you will also need a Powis Parker Scorer in order to crease your cover and prepare it for binding. The Powis Parker Scorer is specifically designed to work in conjunction with Fastback binding machines, and allows you to easily and consistently score covers for books up to 1-1/2″ thick.

Below is a step-by-step guide for binding a Perfectback book using the Fastback 20 and Perfectback-TA strips:

  1. Begin by going into the Settings and selecting “Cover Binding,” then “ON.”
  2. Arrange the inner pages of your document, then tap them repeatedly against a flat surface in order to align the edges. Place the book into the binding channel, sliding it to the right until it is flush against the side of the machine.
  3. Ensure that your pages are still aligned, then press the green “BIND” button to activate the book clamp. The machine will then measure the thickness of your book and indicate the proper strip width on the display screen located at the front of the machine.
  4. Insert the indicated size of Perfectback-TA strip into the guide on the right of the machine. The strip should be inserted with the adhesive side facing up.
  5. The binding cycle will begin automatically once the binding strip is pulled into the machine. The binding cycle will last approximately 15 – 20 seconds, after which the book clamps will open. Remove your book from the binding channel and place it into the cooling rack for 2 – 3 minutes. Note: The book should be placed directly against the cooling rack. If other books are already in the cooling rack, the new document should be placed at the back of the stack, not in front of it.
  6. While your book is cooling, prepare your cover. Ensure that it is more than large enough to wrap around your entire document on all sides. Next, you’ll need to score the cover to create creases that will allow it to bend and form the spine. For best results, it is recommended that you score with the image side of your cover facing up. Use the Powis Parker Scorer to score the cover along both edges of the spine, then place a third score near the spine on the front cover to allow it to open more easily.
  7. After the cover has been scored, make sure that the scores are placed the same distance apart as the width of the spine of your book. Gently fold your cover at the scores.
  8. Remove your document from the cooling rack, then peel off the release liner, working from one side of the book to the other.
  9. Place your document into the folded cover, ensuring that the front cover and the spine edge correspond with the front of your document.
  10. Insert the book into the binding channel, then press the green “BIND” button to close the book clamp.
  11. As soon as the book clamp opens, remove the book from the machine and tap the spine against a flat surface to ensure that the inner pages are firmly adhered to the cover. Note: If, after cooling, you find the pages of your book have not set straight, use the “EDIT” mode to re-melt the adhesive and then tap the book against a flat surface to straighten the pages.
  12. Place the finished book into the cooling rack with the spine side down and allow it to cool for 2 – 3 minutes. Note: For best results, the book should be placed directly against the cooling rack while it cools. If there are other books already in the cooling rack, the new book should be placed at the back of the stack.
  13. Use a stack cutter to trim the edges of the book as desired.

Troubleshooting Your Rhin-O-Tuff 3250CL Coil Binding Machine

Specifically designed for office-use, the Rhin-O-Tuff 3250CL coil binding machine is a streamlined, easy-to-use coil binder that is made with heavy-duty components. This user-friendly binding system has only two buttons – one that operates the electric punching mechanism and another that activates the coil inserting roller. Below are helpful tips for troubleshooting the most common problems experienced while using the Rhin-O-Tuff coil binder:


  • The machine will not punch holes through the inserted paper.

Possible Solutions:

  • Check that the power cord is plugged into a wall outlet.
  • Set the power switch to the “on” position. The power switch is located on the back of the machine, next to the fuse and the power cord.
  • Ensure that the wall outlet has power by testing it with another piece of equipment. If the selected outlet is not functioning as expected, you’ll need to repair it and/or move the machine to another outlet.


  • The holes are punched through the edge of the sheets.

Possible Solutions:

  • If debris has collected within the punching throat, it may prevent the document from being completely inserted. Clear any waste from the punch, then re-insert your document and press the punch button.
  • When placing your sheets into the punch, make sure that they sit flush against the bottom of the throat before punching.


  • The holes are not centered on the sheet.

Possible Solution:

  • After inserting your pages, slide them to the left so that they rest against the paper stop. This will center the pages withing the punching throat.


  • The punching mechanism will not punch completely through the inserted sheets.

Possible Solutions:

  • It is possible that the machine has been overloaded. Remove a few sheets from the back of the stack, then press the punch button again to punch the remaining sheets.
  • The 3250CL can punch a maximum of 25 sheets at a time (based on 20 lb. paper). If you are punching thick cardstock or plastic covers, you should punch no more than 2 sheets at a time.


  • The punching mechanism has stopped with the pins still in the paper and will not retract them.

Possible Solution:

  • Turn the machine power switch to the “off” position and unplug the power cord from the wall. Remove the black cap that is located on the right side plate. Using a flat-head screwdriver, rotate the exposed shaft counter-clockwise to manually retract the punch pins from the paper. Continue until all of the pins are completely retracted, then replace the black cap and remove the sheets from the machine.


  • The spiral binding coil will not spin into the book when pressed against the electric coil inserter.

Possible Solutions:

  • Jog the book by tapping it against a table or other flat surface to ensure that the holes are all evenly aligned.
  • Use the book former (the channel located immediately in front of the coil inserter) to align the pages of the book along a slight curve. This will make inserting the coil easier, especially when binding thick books.


  • The coil crimping pliers will not crimp the coil after binding.

Possible Solution:

  • Before crimping, ensure that the red dot is facing up when the pliers are held in the palm of your hand. The book should be held horizontally with the side to be crimped to the right. Turn the pliers horizontally and insert them into the coil. Hold the coil firmly between your thumb and forefinger, then squeeze the handle until the coil is crimped and cut.

How Do I Bind with the RENZ ERW Wire Binding Machine?

The RENZ ERW wire binding machine is a 3:1 pitch wire binder that features a heavy-duty electric punch and high-efficiency manual wire closer for use in high-volume binding environments. The ERW’s powerful electric punch has a robust punching capacity of up to 25 sheets (based on 20 lb. paper) and is fan-cooled for consistent and reliable punching of up to 20,000 sheets per hour. Below is a step-by-step guide for binding books with the RENZ ERW wire binder:

  1. Connect the foot pedal to the machine, then attach the power cord. Plug the power cord into the wall and turn the binder on.
  2. Measure the total thickness of your unbound book to determine the diameter of the wire binding spine that will be used. The ERW has a measuring scale located toward the rear of the machine that allows you to easily and accurately find the best wire diameter based on the thickness of your document.
  3. Adjust the wire closer based on the diameter of the your wire using the scale located immediately above the wire closer itself. To set the wire closer, loosen the screw, position the indicator on the line that corresponds to the desired diameter, and tighten the screw to complete the adjustment.
  4. Set the punching depth using the depth margin control knob. The punching depth is the amount of space between the edge of the sheet and the holes that are punched, and is generally greater on thick books than thin books.
  5. Position the paper guides based on the sheet size of your document. This will keep the holes centered along the binding edge of your document.
  6. Use the disengaging dies to eliminate any holes that will be partially punched along the ends of your sheets. Dies are easily disengaged by pulling on the corresponding pins. If you need to re-engage a die that had been disengaged for a previous binding project, push the corresponding pin back into the machine until it stops.
  7. Insert the selected twin-loop binding wire into the wire holder. Place the wire in front of the wire holder, press down onto the back edge of the clamp to open it, push the binding spine under the clamp, and then release the clamp to hold the wire in an upright position. This will allow you to insert the the pages of your book onto the wire as they are punched.

How Do I Use the Akiles Finish-@-Coil-E1 Electric Coil Inserter and Crimper?

The Akiles Finish-@-Coil-E1 electric coil inserter and crimper is an efficiency-enhancing, stand-alone coil inserting unit that offers all-electric finishing capabilities. The Finish-@-Coil-E1 offers a comprehensive range of useful features – including foot pedal operation, an adjustable roller gap, and a diameter selector – and can be used in conjunction with any coil binding machine. Unlike most electric coil inserters, which only offer electric inserting capabilities, the Finish-@-Coil-E1 also has fully-electric coil cutting and crimping for even greater productivity. Below is a step-by-step guide to using the Akiles Finish-@-Coil-E1 electric coil inserter with electric crimper:

  1. If necessary, use the built-in Pitch Identifier to verify that the pitch of the binding coil matches the pitch of the punched document.
  2. Place the document into the Coil Diameter Selector to select the appropriate coil size based on the thickness of your document.
  3. Align the coil to the Diameter Scale to verify the size of the coil before binding.
  4. Turn the Lower Roller Adjustment Knob to adjust the lower roller position and the crimper angle based your coil size.
  5. Turn the Crimper Adjustment Knob according to your coil size in order to provide suitable clearance for cutting the coil.
  6. Choose the function that you need from the Operation Mode Switch – either “Crimp,” “Roll,” or “Auto.” When the Operation Mode Switch is set to “Auto,” the Finish-@-Coil-E1 will automatically determine whether it should be in “Roll” or “Crimp” mode using its built-in Crimper Sensor. When the Crimper Sensor does not detect a booklet placed near the crimper, the machine will be automatically set to “Roll” mode. When a booklet is placed on top of the Crimper Sensor, the machine will be automatically set to “Crimp” mode. To disable the “Auto” function, manually set the operating mode to either “Roll” or “Coil.”
  7. Place the punched document into the Book Spine Alignment Channel so that the holes face up. The Book Spine Alignment Channel aligns the pages along a slight curve that aids in coil insertion (especially when used with thick books).
  8. Insert the appropriate plastic binding coil size into the first 4-5 holes of the document by hand.
  9. Ensure that the operation mode is set to “Roll,” then hold the spine of the document evenly against the roller so that the coil is in contact with the roller. Press the foot pedal to engage the motor and begin advancing through the holes.
  10. Once the coil has been inserted through the last hole, immediately move the document away from the roller and/or release the foot pedal. If you accidentally feed the coil beyond the end of the book or miss some pages/holes while inserting, simply flip the document over and press it against the roller to spin the coil in the opposite direction.
  11. When you are ready to crimp the coil, place the book onto the top of the machine so that the coil is facing the Electric Crimper and sits parallel to the Book Spine Alignment Channel. Align the book against the Left Alignment Guide, then move it toward the Electric Crimper. Ensure that the Operation Mode Indicator is set to “Crimp.” Note: It may be necessary to adjust the Left Alignment Guide so that the desired loop of the coil can be inserted into the Coil Crimper Head.
  12. Push down the Top Alignment Guide until it touches the coil. This will secure the coil in place and keep it from moving during crimping.
  13. Press the foot pedal to activate the Electric Crimper and crimp the coil.
  14. Since the Left and Top Alignment Guides have already been set based on the size of the coil that is being used, flip the document over and crimp the other side of the coil to complete the bind.